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Breakfast at Lucky Hank’s: The most important meal of the day

Cod Cakes and Eggs, with home fries and whole wheat toast.

I love a lazy Sunday morning, and I love it even more when I get to go out to breakfast. Last Sunday, we picked Lucky Hank’s in Edgartown, and as soon as I get another chance I’m going back. The cozy wood inside makes the place so comfortable, and the garden outside leads me to guessing which plants might make it into the restaurant’s kitchen.

Omelets are my usual go-to for breakfast, and the menu offered plenty of those, including the Edgartown (with wild mushrooms, onions, and Swiss cheese), the Oak Bluffs (with bacon, onion, tomato, and cheddar), and the Chilmark (with spinach, onions, tomato, and feta). I decided to take a walk on the wild side and ordered Cod Cakes and Eggs ($12). My husband went for what looked to be the sweetest thing imaginable for breakfast: LH’s Famous Crunchy French Toast ($12). When his plate arrived, it looked more like dessert than breakfast: fresh strawberries, sweet ricotta cheese, slivered almonds, and a drizzle of chocolate sauce covered the French toast. All reports claimed it was delicious.

My cod cakes arrived topped with something called “lobster tartar sauce.” They were just the right size and texture, a little crunchy on the outside and tender and flavorful inside — and I could actually taste the codfish. I wondered, though, if it would be possible to ask for a separate bowl of that tartar sauce? With just a hint of lobster and a creamy texture, it was a far cry from the mayonnaise-and-relish combo usually served with seafood.

The home fries at Lucky Hank’s were perfect as well, with diced sweet potatoes mixed in among the usual fried potatoes; they didn’t leave me feeling stuffed and ashamed.

Our waitress Khatia said that after working at Lucky Hank’s for four years, she’d still choose the cod cakes and eggs for breakfast every time. I asked owner and chef Doug Smith what the most popular breakfast item was, and of course it was the cod cakes and eggs. I knew I made the right choice; sometimes you have to go with your gut — literally.

What does Doug like best?

“I love the fatty food,” he admitted. “I like the Benedicts, and the Florentine is my favorite. I love the veggie options for breakfast too. I always try to take care of the veggie people; they take such good care of themselves, so I try to reward them.”

Since we were on the topic of fatty food, I had to ask what was in that lobster tartar sauce. “Shallots, herbs, diced cornichons, lobster, capers …” his voice trailed off before we got to the creamy sauce component. Doug said the menu fluctuates a little throughout the year, staying true to seasonal options.

Now I only have about 38 more items left to try.

Lucky Hank’s, 218 Upper Main St., Edgartown, is opening for breakfast 8 am to 2:30 pm, for lunch 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, and for dinner from 5 to 9 pm. 508-939-4082; luckyhanksmv.com.

This story by Connie Berry originally appeared at mvtimes.com.